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Friday, February 10, 2012

50 Women Game-Changers (in Food): #34 Ella Brennan - Red Beans and Rice

the "Gourmet" prompt...
34. Ella Brennan- “I didn’t know they gave awards for having fun,” was the New Orleans restaurant matriarch’s line on accepting the 2009 James Beard Foundation’s Lifetime Achievement Award. From Commander’s Palace on down, the Big Easy would have been Smaller and Harder without her help.


The restaurant business practically runs in her blood.  She began as kitchen supervisor in her older brother, Owen's restaurant alongside another sister and brother (and their father could often be found greeting lunch customers before his heart attack in the early 50's.  When her brother passed away at 45 years old, Ella was only 30 when she took on the role of restaurant manager of the family restaurant, Brennan's...which she brought to a whole new level.

She was dubbed Queen of Creole Cuisine by People magazine.  One of her restaurants (Commander's Place) received a James Beard Foundation Award in 1996.  Number one in Zagat and Food and Wine magazine customer polls each time surveys are done, it's no wonder she is heralded for "both an incomparable attention to detail and an unmatched style of hospitality and warmth".  She is a mentor, teacher, and coach for young people with a passion for the restaurant world.  She still works closely with her sister, niece and nephew, daughter and son at their restaurants.

There is a wonderful historical story of the Brennan's on their restaurant website of which I only touched on some highlights here.
 I was unsuccessful in finding any books with Ella's recipes in them in my local library, but I did find some floating around online.  This dish was inspired by the Red Beans and Rice at Brennan's New Orleans restaurant 
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Red Beans and Rice

by Heather Schmitt-González
Prep Time: 10-15 minutes
Cook Time: 20-30 minutes
Keywords: entree side vegan vegetarian nut-free soy-free sugar-free beans legumes American
Ingredients (serves 2)
  • ~1½ Tbs. olive oil
  • ¼ c. diced onion (~½ small onion)
  • ¼ c. diced green bell pepper (~½ small pepper)
  • ¼ c. diced celery (~1 stalk)
  • 2 garlic cloves, chopped
  • 1 heaping Tbs. Smoked Paprika
  • ½ tsp. crushed red chile flakes
  • ½ tsp. dried thyme
  • 1½-2 c. cooked red kidney beans (light, dark, or a mix) + some reserved cooking liquid
  • salt
  • freshly ground black pepper
  • flat leaf parsley, coarsely chopped
  • ~2 c. cooked brown basmati rice
Instructions
Heat olive oil in a large deep-sided skillet over medium heat. Once hot, add onion, bell pepper, celery, and garlic. Saute until the vegetables have started to soften and turn transluscent, 3-5 minutes. Add smoked paprika, crushed red chiles, and thyme and cook for about 30 seconds, stirring constantly.

Add beans and about ½ cup of their cooking liquid (or water). Stir and once everything starts to boil, lower heat to maintain a gentle bubble. Cook for ~15 minutes, stirring occasionally and adding a bit of water if the beans get too dry. You want them to maintain a bit of sauciness.

Season with salt and pepper to taste. Throw in a small handful of chopped parsley. Serve hot over steamed brown rice.

*brown basmati rice:
Start with about a cup of dry rice. Add rice and about one and a half its volume in water to a medium pot. Bring to boil, cover, reduce to simmer and cook ~20 minutes or until all water is absorbed and rice is just tender. If you start this right before you start the beans, it should all finish at about the same time.

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In May '11, Gourmet posted a list of 50 Women Game-Changers (in Food) that runs the gamut from food writers to cookbook authors to television personalities to restauranteurs to chefs to food bloggers.  Some are a given.  Some are controversial.  Speaking the names of some brings fond childhood memories.  Speaking the names of others will make some readers cringe.  And of course, some of our favorites were not even included.  We food-lovers are a passionate bunch of people and whether we agree or disagree, every woman on this list has earned her place for a reason.  Being a woman who is passionate about food (cooking, eating, talking about, writing about, photographing), when I caught wind of Mary from One Perfect Bite's idea of cooking/blogging her way through each of these 50 women...one per week...I knew I wanted to join her.  Many of these women paved the way for us in culinary school, in the kitchen, in cookbooks, in food writing, and on television and I think it is a fabulous way to pay tribute to their efforts.  Some of the women on the list have been tops with me for years.  Some I have heard of (perhaps even seen, read, or cooked from) before.  And there are even a handful that I am not familiar with at all.  I excited to educate myself on each of these women game-changers and hope you look forward to reading along.  We are going in order from 1 to 50.
Who is cooking along with these 50 Women Game-Changers?

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Thursday, February 9, 2012

Brötchen, Matschbrötchen, and The Baker's Daughter by Sarah McCoy {book tour}


Author:  Sarah McCoy
Publisher: Crown
hard cover: 304 pages
"foodie" elements: yes

random excerpt:  Deedee had come over with two bottles of Château Morrisette.  They'd drunk barefoot on the fresh-cut lawn, green clippings stuck to their toes.  By the second cork pop, wine wasn't the only thing being poured into the night.  Tipsy on illusive dreams, they forgot all their girlhood tears, talking of quixotic futures until even the lightning bugs turned off their lights; and for once, they understood why their daddy drank bourbon like lemonade.  It was nice to pretend the world was wonderful--to gulp away the fears, hush the memories, let your guard down and simply be content, if only for a few hours.  p.28
summary/synopsis (from TLC website):  In 1945, Elsie Schmidt was a naive teenager, as eager for her first sip of champagne as she was for her first kiss. She and her family have been protected from the worst of the terror and desperation overtaking her country by a high-ranking Nazi who wishes to marry her. So when an escaped Jewish boy arrives on Elsie’s doorstep in the dead of night on Christmas Eve, Elsie understands that opening the door would put all she loves in danger.

Sixty years later, in El Paso, Texas, Reba Adams is trying to file a feel-good Christmas piece for the local magazine. Reba is perpetually on the run from memories of a turbulent childhood, but she’s been in El Paso long enough to get a full-time job and a fiancé, Riki Chavez. Riki, an agent with the U.S. Border Patrol, finds comfort in strict rules and regulations, whereas Reba feels that lines can often be blurred.

Reba’s latest assignment has brought her to the shop of an elderly baker across town. The interview should take a few hours at most, but the owner of Elsie’s German Bakery is no easy subject. Reba finds herself returning to the bakery again and again, anxious to find the heart of the story. For Elsie, Reba’s questions are a stinging reminder of darker times: her life in Germany during that last bleak year of WWII. And as Elsie, Reba, and Riki’s lives become more intertwined, all are forced to confront the
uncomfortable truths of the past and seek out the courage to forgive.

my thoughts/review:  This is my first "favorite" read of the year.  Great character development, picturesque historical descriptions, and skillful balancing of past and present are gracefully woven together like a cozy afghan that I wanted wrap myself in for extended periods of time.  The tale of the Schmidt family during the time of Hitler...Elsie growing up more fortunate than most in that her family's bakery survived (all be it barely) through the Nazi occupation was thrilling.  It made me yearn to know about my ancestors who, for all I know, may have experienced many of the same things.  I can't begin to describe my feelings.  It's "one of those".  I find myself (oddly) at a loss for words.  Other than to recommend it to fans of historical fiction and food.  It ends with a wonderful little collection of recipes that span from 1940's Germany to present day Texas.  I recommend baking up something tempting and spending some time along with your baked goods and this book.

I knew I had to make something even before I knew there were recipes at the back.  I didn't page ahead, so it was a pleasant surprise to find a recipe for the Brötchen, which is exactly what I planned on finding a recipe for anyway.  Each one of us (five) loved these simple orbs that were perfectly tender on the inside with a crusty outside.  Heads were perched atop necks that were bobbing back and forth searching for more once they disappeared.  They've made their way into our permanent rotation.  Thank you, Elsie...
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Brötchen (+ Matschbrötchen)

by Heather Schmitt-González
Prep Time: 2½-3 hours
Cook Time: 15-20 minutes
Keywords: bake bread snack dessert chocolate flour German

Ingredients (12 rolls)
  • 2½-3 c. (350 g-420 g) all-purpose flour
  • 2¼ tsp. (7 g) active dry yeast
  • 1 tsp. (4 g) superfine sugar
  • 1 c. warm water, divided
  • 1 Tbs. oil
  • 1 tsp. salt
egg wash:
  • 1 egg
  • 1 tsp. water
To make 1 Matschbrötchen (Mud Bread Roll):
  • 1 Brötchen (still warm is best)
  • 1 schaumkuss (foam kiss), mallomar, or chocolate covered marshmallow
Instructions
Put 2½ cups flour into a large bowl and make a well in the middle. Pour yeast, sugar, and 2 Tbs. of the warm water into the well and mix these together (don't mix in flour yet). Cover the bowl with a kitchen towel and set in a warm place until the yeast is foamy (proofed), 5-15 minutes.

Add the rest of the warm water, oil, and salt. Using a wooden spoon, beat everything (including the flour this time) until well combined. Turn dough out onto a floured board and knead, adding as much of the remaining flour as needed to make a smooth, pliable dough.

Place dough in a greased bowl. Cover and let rise at room temperature until it has doubled in size, ~1 hour.
Punch down the dough and divide into 12 even pieces. Shape into rolls and place 3" apart on a greased and floured baking tray. Cover and let rise until doubled again, ~45 minutes.

Preheat oven to 450° F during last 15 minutes of rise time.

Cut a slit or a cross on top of each bun. Whisk egg and water together, then brush over the rolls. Slide into preheated oven and bake for 15-20 minutes until the tops are golden.

To make 1 Matschbrötchen (Mud Bread Roll):
Pull the warm bun in half. Place chocolate covered marshmallow in center and replace top. Squish together a bit and eat immediately.

I used a Dark Chocolate Covered Marshmallow Heart on a still very warm bun...and it is PURE HEAVEN!

both slightly adapted from The Baker's Daughter by Sarah McCoy
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"Kind of wonderful to think something as simple as bread can mean so much to people." ~Reba p. 265

about the author:  Sarah McCoy is author of the novel, The Time It Snowed in Puerto Rico. She has taught English writing at Old Dominion University and at the University of Texas at El Paso. The daughter of an Army officer, her family was stationed in Germany during her childhood. She calls Virginia home but presently lives with her husband and dog, Gilbert, in El Paso, Texas. The Baker’s Daughter is her second novel. She is currently working on her next.

further info: website | blog | facebook | twitter
*I received a free copy of this book to review from the publisher. All thoughts and opinions stated in this post are 100% mine.

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Wednesday, February 8, 2012

Fried Mozzarella Sandwiches

This sandwich won't win any beauty pageants, but a plate stacked high with wedges of them will be the first thing your kids make a beeline for when they walk in the door after a "hard" day at school.  In fact, it's pretty hard for kids of any age to resist melty cheese in a crispy-fried crust, isn't it?  It is. 

I'm gonna admit...they're pretty messy to make.  My hands were covered in egg and bread crumbs from trying to hold them together and get everything to adhere before frying.  But it was totally worth it.  Totally.

That's it for today...a totally satisfying quickie.  Nothing like a good quickie.  That's what I always say.  Okay.  It's not.  I don't always say that.  But I'm saying it now.
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Fried Mozzarella Sandwiches

by Heather Schmitt-González
Prep Time: 5-10 minutes
Cook Time: 5 minutes
Keywords: fry appetizer entree sandwich snack cheese bacon

Ingredients (serves 2-4)
  • 2 eggs
  • salt
  • all-purpose flour
  • dry bread crumbs, regular or panko
  • 2-4 thin slices cooked bacon (or ham), optional
  • ~3 oz. thinly sliced mozzarella cheese
  • 4 slices white bread, crusts removed
  • olive oil, for frying
Instructions
Whip the eggs with a bit of salt in a flattish bowl. Sprinkle some flour over one plate and te breadcrumbs over another plate.

Make two sandwiches by dividing the bacon or ham (if using) and mozzarella between two pieces of bread and topping with the last two slices. Pinch the outsides of the bread together a bit.

Heat about 1/2" of oil in a skillet over medium-high heat.

Carefully (seriously, this is tricky) grab a sandwich and dip in flour on all four sides. Dip into eggwash and then into bread crumbs. Lower carefully into oil and fry until golden on both sides.

Lift out onto a paper towel-lined plate to soak up excess oil and repeat with other sandwich. Slice on the diagonal, if you wish. Serve immediately.

note:
Change it up by layering in a few fresh leaves of basil or some paper-thin slices of juicy tomato.

adapted from Apples for Jam by Tessa Kiros
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Tuesday, February 7, 2012

Blue Corn Tortillas & Pueblo Carne Adobado (Pueblo Chile-Bathed Pork)

I caught it.  And I am NOT happy about it.  The stupid (for lack of enough brain power to think of a better word) sickness that has been ravaging the country.  Or at least the surrounding area.  Poor Sweet Thang is on the tail-end of a month-long battle that included antibiotics, other prescriptions, plenty of over-the-counter meds, and lots of lovin'.  Drama Queen didn't get it full blast (knock on wood), she just needed a hit of decongestant to ease the pressure on her ears.  Mexi caught it full-blast last week (one minute you're fine, the next you feel like you've been hit by a steamroller).  I thought...hey, I'm gonna make it past it...along with Lyrical Teen.  Well.  Wrong.  A few nights ago I went to bed fine and woke up with a sore throat and the inability to swallow gracefully.  Not to mention the ice picks stabbing my brain and the crazy pains in my neck and my back.  It doesn't help that I watched Contagion last week.  Lyrical Teen triumphantly claimed that he was Matt Damon.  And I wasn't.  Grrrrrr.  Okay, that will make no sense if you didn't see the movie, but I don't want to ruin it for anybody who hasn't seen it.
And you know what really sucks about not having a "real" (ie...paying) job?  Lack of insurance.  (No worries, the kids are covered...it's just us adults that are screwed.)  So.  This morning after the kids were off to get some learnin', Mexi and I decided to drive over to the local Health Clinic to see if we could be seen.  Fortunately for him, he'd been there before, so he got an appointment for tomorrow.  I, on the other hand hadn't, so I couldn't be seen until the end  of February.  Great.  So, when I'm dead or close to it.  So the big dilemma ensues in my head.  Do I go to the emergency room and rack up a bill that will probably be about 500 smackers?  I could go to our "regular" doctor and rack up a significantly lower bill, but a bill still.  Or I could get some antibiotics from an "underground" source.  Within minutes.  No, I'm not even sure if I need antibiotics, but I have been through enough bouts of ear/sinus infections in my day to know how they feel.  Add some of the Mucinex that you have to get behind the counter...good to go.  I hope.  Obviously that was what I chose.
But really, this is all just leading up to the reason we were out driving around this morning.  After I'd tossed back 500 mg of my underground meds, hubs asked if I was hungry.  Well, yes.  But it hurts to eat, so I don't really crave anything.  We went into one of the many local mercado/taquerias anyway and I stared at the board trying to decide what the easiest thing to swallow (literally) would be.  Often times, if you know somebody or "look the part", you'll get suggestions that aren't even listed.  I think this guy took one look at us and knew he had to suggest the Posole Verde.  And Menudo, but if it's not the kind that involves a young Ricky Martin, then I'm not interested.  Praise the heavens for posole, though.  The bowl was warm and deep with a low-dose of "green" heat, chewy hominy and tons of tender chicken shreds.  Once I squeezed my lime wedges over it and piled on the lettuce, cilantro, and onions...I was able to let the comfort slide down my throat with minimal pain.  And funny that even in the midst of feeling like sh*t, I lamented not having my camera with me.

Okay, I know it's not very clear, but what  I was trying so round-about-ly to convey is that Mexican and Southwest-style food is everyday fare for me.  It's been my favorite my whole life.  I have easy access to ingredients, we have an actual "Little Mexico" in our town, I'm married to a Mexican.  And I realize, after talking with distant friends, that this is something I just take for granted.  I can't imagine not having chiles and masa at the ready.  Well, upon cooking with a great group of bloggers spread across the globe, I realize that not everybody has such easy access.  What I thought was a simple, everyday dish can actually seem exotic to some.  As we continue to cook through Flatbreads & Flavors (2 "assignments" a month), I look forward to being challenged by cuisines from other locales...ones that may not be so comfortable to me...that aren't "my norm".  But I am ALWAYS happy to be eating Southwest and Mexican-inspired dishes like the Tortillas and Chile-Bathed Pork that you see here.  For me, this is comfort food at its finest.  Guajillo chiles don't carry much heat, so really it's just a bunch of very flavorful cubed pork wrapped in soft, steaming corn tortillas.  
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Pueblo Chile-Bathed Pork and Blue Corn Tortillas

by Heather Schmitt-González
Prep Time: overnight
Cook Time: 1 hour 15 minutes
Keywords: simmer bread entree pork cornmeal chiles Southwest Mexican

Ingredients (serves 4)
    Pueblo Chile-Bathed Pork (Pueblo Carne Adobado):
    • ~1¾ lbs. lean boneless pork
    • 2 oz. dried guajillo chiles, stemmed
    • ¾ c. hot water
    • ½ tsp. salt
    • 2 cloves garlic, minced
    • 1 Tbs. dried oregano
    • 2 Tbs. olive oil
    Blue Corn Tortillas
    • 1½ c. blue cornmeal
    • 1½ c. boiling water
    • ¾-1 c. unbleached all-purpose flour
    Instructions
    Pueblo Chile-Bathed Pork (Pueblo Carne Adobado):
    Cut pork into small chunks. Place in a shallow nonreactive dish.

    Prepare chile sauce by combining chiles and water in a blender and blending to a smooth paste. Add salt, garlic, and oregano; blend well.

    Pour sauce over the pork and toss to coat. Cover and allow to marinate for 12-24 hours in the refrigerator.

    Heat a deep skillet or heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the oil. When hot, add the meat and saute until browned, stirring frequently. Add about ½ cup of water, partially cover and simmer over medium-low for 1 hour.

    Serve with blue corn tortillas (or any type), crema or sour cream, and some pico de gallo (I used kumatos, scallions, lime juice, cilantro, jalapeno, garlic, and salt & pepper to make this pico).
    Blue Corn Tortillas:
    Place cornmeal in a bowl, pour the bowling water over and stir to mix. Let sit for 15 minutes. Stir ¼ cup flour into cornmeal, and turn this mixture out onto a work surface spread wtih ¼ cup more flour. Knead for 2-3 minutes, incorporating the flour into the dough...adding more flour as needed until dough is soft and no longer sticky. Return dough to bowl, cover and let rest for 30 minutes.

    Divide dough into golfball size pieces and press in a tortilla press lined with plastic (or sprayed).

    Cook on a preheated comal or heavy skillet (preferably cast-iron) for about a minute per side,
    or until flecked with brown on both sides and cooked through.

    Remove and keep wrapped in a kitchen towel while you repeat with remaining dough.
    pork and tortillas adapted from Flatbreads & Flavors by Jeffrey Alford and Naomi Duguid
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    In the second half of this month, we'll head to Penang (yes, completely out of my norm) to explore with some Coconut Milk Chicken Curry and Lacey Coconut Milk Pancakes.  I can't wait!
    Check out more variations from other participants in this challenge:


    1. Heather
    2. Natashya
    3. Astrid
    4. Baking Soda
    5. Soepkipje
    6. Gretchen Noelle



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