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Tuesday, December 20, 2011

Ponche Navideño {she made, ella hace}

For this month's edition of she made, ella hace, Leslie and I thought that it would be fun to make Ponche Navideño (basically, Christmas Punch).  We just call it Ponche around here.  Every year around about the beginning of December, you can long rods of sugar canes leaning against one wall of our local Mexican Mercados.  I'm talking TALL.  Taller than six foot each and standing straight up like pool sticks.  I remember about ten years ago just standing there and wondering what in the world they were used for.  I wanted to bring one home just for the fun of it.  But I waited.  And I went home and asked the hubs about them.  Not long after that, I was pretty educated in the ways of Christmas in Mexico.  And the glories of Ponche.

Mi esposo gets a far-off look in his eyes when he remembers  his mami's simmering pots of Ponche...and really, I can't blame him.  If you come home to a warm home that is permeated with the warm, sweet scent of cinnamon, apples, oranges, and tamarindo...you'd swear it was Christmas Eve then and there.  It puts you in a very dreamy state of mind.  For those of you who've never tried it, it is very reminiscent of spiced cider.  Or maybe a Hot Toddie.

Recipes and methods for making ponche vary from state to state, town to town, and person to person...just like any cherished family keepsake.  And now I feel extra cool when I saunter into the mercado in December and walk out with a rod of sugar cane that is taller than me in one hand and a bag overflowing with tamarindo, tejocotes, piloncillo and canela among various other things in my other hand.  You can use crab apples instead of tejocotes if you aren't able to find any.  You could add pears or raisins.  You could even add other spices, if you choose.  Add fruit whole, halved, sliced...find your favorite way of doing it.  Some people like to cut their fruit into chunks small enough to fit in their cups.  We prefer to leave them larger and pull just ladlefuls of steaming liquid from the pot or bowl.  And just like Mexi grew up doing, we serve a slice of cañe that you can dip into the liquid and then pull through your teeth...chewing along the way to release that sweet liquid.  Heck, in a pinch you can even buy Ponche "mixes" (basically dried fruit and spices or fruit suspended in liquid in glass jars) in the right mercado.

Here's the way we make our Ponche...and now I'm headed over to see how Leslie made hers!
Ponche Navideño
{Christmas Punch}
from the kitchen of girlichef
yield: just over a gallon

1 lb. tejocotes (hawthorne apples)
1 lb. guayabas (guavas)
9" stick of cañe (sugar cane), or the equivalent
3½ oz. tamarindo pods (tamarind)
2 large sticks canela (Mexican cinnamon)
2 naranjas (oranges)
2 large manzanas (apples)
4 oz. ciruelas (prunes), pitted
7 oz. piloncillo (unrefined sugar cone)
3 quarts + 2 cups cold water

to finish:
rum, brandy, tequila or other alcohol (optional)

Prepare fruit:
Cut tejocotes in half and remove the large seeds.  If you like, you can blanch them for a few minutes in boiling water, then remove.  This will let you easily half and seed them...plus, you'll be able to just slip off the skins.  If you want to do this, I recommend measuring out the amount of water called for and then doing it right in this water, so as to not lose any flavor.

Cut guayabas in half, crosswise.  Slice oranges.  Cut the apple from the core and slice.  Cut ciruelas in half, lengthwise.
Cut the sugar cane into sections by carefully whacking your knife down on one of the "divider" lines hard a few times.  You should be able to just use your hands to break it off the rest of the way...or else just continue to cut through with your knife.  Slip the edge of a sharp knife under the outer "lip" of the outside of the sugar cane.  Carefully push down with your knife while pulling back on the hard "bark".  Basically, you're peeling it.  Do this all the way around.  Once it is peeled all the way, cut into strips, lengthwise.  You could shell and seed the tamarindo, if you'd like to...but I don't.
Place everything except the alcohol into a large pot and bring to a boil.  Lower heat and let slowly bubble for ~30 minutes.

Serve hot from the cooking vessel or transfer to a punch bowl.  Plop one of the strips of sugar cane into your cup to use as a swizzle stick and then ladle in the warm punch.  Drink and enjoy.  

Or add a healthy shot of rum (or other alcohol) to the cup and then ladle in the warm punch.  Drink and enjoy even more!
*Head on over for a cup of mi amiga Leslie's Ponche!*
What happens when two American girls who are both married to Mexican guys find out that although one of them lives in the U.S. and one of them lives in Mexico, they both love eating the same food?  Well, naturally they decide to get "together" the only way they can and cook up the same dishes.  Or perhaps take the same ingredients and talking about them in their own voice or using them in their own way. 

Leslie and I have teamed up to occasionally cook/bake/make a our own versions of the same food.  We want to see how similar (or how different) they turn out.  Other times we will pick an ingredient and use it however we choose...or maybe just talk about it.  Good food knows no borders and we hope to share the food we love with you.  It's not a competition, it's a showcase.  We will post on the same day as each other and would love to hear your thoughts on what we've made and how you make it. 

Join me (here at girlichef) and Leslie in her kitchen (at La Cocina de Leslie) for some delicious food.
She Made, Ella Hace Banner- girlichef.com and lacocinadeleslie.com

I am sharing this post with:
Tasty Tuesdays 33 shades of green TastyTuesdayBB hearthnsoul150 a little birdie told me rook no. 17
Sunday, December 18, 2011

Win a LIFETIME MEMBERSHIP to EAT YOUR BOOKS

So.  You say you have about a million cookbooks (or so) stacked on your shelves and towering on the counter?  And at least as many food magazine piled up on the end table?  I'm guessing you probably follow a few food blogs, as well.

Yeah, me too.

And of course this means that you're able to find a recipe for anything you need at the drop of a hat, right?

 Uhhh...yeaaaah.  Me neither.

I find myself desperately scanning indexes and licking fingers and flipping pages and checking bookmarks and searching ingredients trying to figure out "where I saw that recipe"!  Or at least I used to.  Until I found a cool little site called EAT YOUR BOOKS.  If you're not familiar with it...and you find yourself in said dilemma more often than not...might I suggest running over and falling in love with it?

Or perhaps you're just saying... "Tell me what it is already!"  or  "Why should I scoot over there when I'm already here?"  or  "Oh yes, I already know all about that place, just tell me how I can win."  Fine.  I'll tell you what EAT YOUR BOOKS is all about.  It's about helping you make sense of all of those cookbooks and food magazines and food blogs you can't do without...but have a hard time finding anything within.  Well, at EAT YOUR BOOKS you'll find a database of over 95,000 cookbooks...plus food magazines and food blogs that are being added to all of the time!  Basically, once you have an account, you enter your collection into the database.  Then when you want to find a certain recipe...or search by ingredient...or by ethnicity...you just type it in and search.   What will pop us is "indexing information includes the name of the recipe, the main ingredients it uses, and very detailed classification of the recipe, such as recipe type and ethnicity - the complete recipe is not included".  Then  you can go right to the book (or magazine) on your shelf to get the recipe.  I mentioned that they have also started to include food blogs in the directory...and I'm totally psyched that my blog (this blog right here...that you're reading right now...girlichef) will soon be included in that blog index!  Yup, soon you'll be able to add me to your bookshelf!  So cool.

So whaddaya say?  You want to be a member, don't ya?  I thought so.  EAT YOUR BOOKS has generously offered one of my readers A LIFETIME MEMBERSHIP TO EAT YOUR BOOKS!

How to Enter (required):
-Leave me a comment at the end of this post letting me know one of your favorite cookbooks/food magazines/food blogs.

Extra Entries (leave a separate comment for each one you do):
-Tweet about this Contest with a link back to this post.  Include @girlichef and @EatYourBooks in the tweet, as well.
You can copy and paste this, if you like: Win a LIFETIME MEMBERSHIP to @EatYourBooks from @girlichef http://bit.ly/rRRy1Q



Anybody is welcome to enter.  I will draw a winner using random dot org shortly after the close of this contest.  All entries are due December 23, 2011 at 11:59 pm (just in time to give yourself a holiday gift!).  Please make sure to leave an email address or some other way of contacting you in your entry.  Good Luck!

UPDATE 12/24/11: Congratulations to Natalia!  Start lining up those books ;)

Saturday, December 17, 2011

Champurrado {Atole de Chocolate}

Mi esposo?  He's a fabulous storyteller.  He can mimic voices and movements and the slightest intonations that others may not pick up on.  Expertly, I might add.  I love it when he talks about the food and cooking going on in his abuelita's kitchen.  Homemade tortillas and beverages hot from the stove inevitably conjure up visions of the tales he's woven for us.  

For example, I know that his abuelito had a mouth of steel!  He built his wife a huge L-shaped "cooking corner" of sorts...ith a hole cut out where the two sides meet for lowering earthen cooking vessels, large and small.  Wood can be tucked in on the sides and pushed deeper inside to stoke up the fire.  On one side, she had a huge metate on which she would grind the masa early in the morning for making things like tortillas and atole.  As she worked her way around that "L", she'd ladle steaming atole into a waiting jarro and pass it over to her husband.  Then she'd toss the first tortilla into his calloused hands.  He'd quickly roll it up and scoop a big helping of salsa into his mouth.  And then...then he would grab that still-steaming mug of atole and slurp it into his mouth.  As if to wash down hot with hot.  I imagine his mouth and throat must have been calloused, as well.  When hubby tells the story, he makes the noise that his abuelo would make when he took a drink.  Imagine sucking air in at the same time as you're drawing in a big gulp of steaming liquid.  And that's how it was.  Every morning for many, many years.

To this day, every time I hand him a mug of steaming coffee, tea, hot chocolate, or atole...we both grin as he makes "the noise" and takes a sip.  Emulating the grandfather he loves so deeply.  This Champurrado is just the thing for warming you up on a cold morning or after a romp in the snow.  The masa thickens it and assures you with every sip that it is sticking to your ribs like an internal blanket.  I love the flavor that anise seeds lend.  If you don't like them, feel free to leave them out and add a stick of canela instead.  This is comfort in a cup.
Champurrado (Atole de Chocolate)
Masa-Thickened Hot Chocolate
adapted from: Authentic Mexican
yield: 4-6 servings (~1 quart)

½ c. masa harina
2 c. warm water
2 c. milk
4 oz. Mexican chocolate, chopped
2 ½ oz. Piloncillo, chopped
½ tsp. anise seeds, crushed
pinch of sea salt

Combine masa harina and water in the jar of a blender.  Blend until smooth and pour into a medium pot.  

Pour milk into blender and shake it around to get all of the masa that has been left behind.  Pour this into the pot, as well.

Add chopped chocolate, piloncillo, crushed anise seeds, and sea salt.  

Bring to  a simmer, whisking almost constantly.  Reduce heat to medium-low and continue to simmer and whisk for ~5 minutes, or until sugar and chocolate are dissolved and the liquid has thickened.

Pour into mugs or glasses and serve immediately.  You can strain this if you like, but I love the rustic charm of the bits of anise seed, masa, and Mexican chocolate.

Friday, December 16, 2011

50 Women Game-Changers (in Food): #28 Anne-Sophie Pic - Pain Perdu (French Toast)

the "Gourmet" prompt...
28. Anne–Sophie Pic- OK, Le Fooding is more au courant than the stuffy old Michelin Guide, but that three–star award still means something. And Pic was the first woman to win it—in 50 years at her century–old family restaurant, La Maison Pic.

She's French.  Her father was a chef.  Her grandfather was a chef.  Growing up, her bedroom was situated over the kitchen of her family's restaurant.  So of course Anne-Sophie did what any normal teenager would do.  She rebelled. She rebelled against the family business of being in the kitchen.  She did (what I consider to be) a complete one-eighty by going overseas to study "management".  Fortunately, at 23 the pull of the kitchen led her back and she decided to train under her father.  Sadly, he passed away not long after she made her decision.  But she kept on...and she shook up the restaurant by changing the menu to "reflect her devotion to plain, natural ingredients".*  Can't you just hear the French curses flying!?
 Pain Perdu
{French Toast}
adapted from: Anne-Sophie Pic
serves: 2-4 people

4 fat slices of Brioche
2 eggs
10 grams sugar
5 dl (~1 c.) whole milk
½ vanilla bean
butter

Whisk together the eggs and the sugar.  Scrape the seeds from the vanilla bean and whisk them and the milk into the eggs.

Place a skillet over medium heat.  Dip each slice of Brioche into the custardy mixture and flip.  Let sit to soak for about five minutes.  

Add a pat of butter to the hot skillet and once it melts, lay on the soaked bread.  Cook for a few minutes, or until golden.  Flip and repeat.  Repeat with remaining slices.

Serve warm with more soft butter, seasonal jam (like this Pumpkin Jam), and/or maple syrup.  (note: I also love adding a good grating of nutmeg to my custard mixture.)
In May '11, Gourmet posted a list of 50 Women Game-Changers (in Food) that runs the gamut from food writers to cookbook authors to television personalities to restauranteurs to chefs to food bloggers.  Some are a given.  Some are controversial.  Speaking the names of some brings fond childhood memories.  Speaking the names of others will make some readers cringe.  And of course, some of our favorites were not even included.  We food-lovers are a passionate bunch of people and whether we agree or disagree, every woman on this list has earned her place for a reason.  Being a woman who is passionate about food (cooking, eating, talking about, writing about, photographing), when I caught wind of Mary from One Perfect Bite's idea of cooking/blogging her way through each of these 50 women...one per week...I knew I wanted to join her.  Many of these women paved the way for us in culinary school, in the kitchen, in cookbooks, in food writing, and on television and I think it is a fabulous way to pay tribute to their efforts.  Some of the women on the list have been tops with me for years.  Some I have heard of (perhaps even seen, read, or cooked from) before.  And there are even a handful that I am not familiar with at all.  I excited to educate myself on each of these women game-changers and hope you look forward to reading along.  We are going in order from 1 to 50.
Who is cooking along with these 50 Women Game-Changers?

I am sharing this post with:
Foodie Friday Logo 2 friday food at mom trends
Thursday, December 15, 2011

Cinnamon Lovers Delight {Cinnamon Ice Cream w/ Cinnamon Raisin Bread Praline Crunch}

I often like to play "what would I do?".  As in...what would I do if I was a contestant on Chopped.  Or maybe Next Iron Chef.  What would I do if I opened up the basket and had to make something from gherkins, marshmallows, turbot, and ouzo.  Ya know?  Something that's gonna shine.  And taste good.  No, taste AMAZING.  Or perhaps I've somehow stuck my foot in it and landed in the bottom two.  What do I make with that mystery ingredient that is hiding under the deep red cloak!?  How would I showcase those boxed crackers and bottles of wine?  From time to time my ideas overlap what somebody else has thought of.  Other times I'm on a whole different wavelength.  And there's also the times when I'm inspired by what is made because I was ABSOLUTELY STUMPED as to what I would have done with that loaf of fruitcake.

So.  My efforts were rewarded.  All of those WWID scenarios popped into my head when I accepted the challenge of taking part in an Iron Chef Challenge past-Winners Competition.  Little did I know that when I created my Lazy Girl's Cassoulet eleven months ago, I'd be dukin' it out for a winning spot in one final competition of the year.  This month's challenge was a bit different, though.  In past months, we were given an ingredient and challenged to make something fantastic with it.  This time, however, we were given a recipe that we had to follow exactly.  A recipe for Cinnamon Raisin Bread (a quick bread).  We were to make the recipe as written, and then turn it into something else.  

So, let's begin by taking a look at what we were working with...
 Cinnamon Raisin Bread 
recipe source: Taste of Home  
yield: 2 loaves (12 slices each)

4 c. all-purpose flour
1½ c. sugar
2 tsp. baking soda
1 tsp. salt
2 eggs
2 c. buttermilk
½ c. canola oil
½ c. raisins

for swirling:
½ c. sugar
1 Tbs. ground cinnamon

In a large bowl, combine the flour, 1½ cups sugar, soda and salt.  In a small bowl, whisk the eggs, buttermilk and oil. Stir into dry ingredients just until moistened. Fold in raisins. 

Combine cinnamon and sugar for swirling; set aside.

Spoon half of the batter into two greased 8" x 4" loaf pans.  Sprinkle with half of the reserved cinnamon-sugar; repeat layers.  Cut through batter with a knife to swirl.

Bake at 350° F for 55-60 minutes or until a toothpick inserted near the center comes out clean. Cool in pans for 10 minutes before removing from pans to wire racks. 
 Now.  I was a bit stumped at first.  I just imagined Alton pulling aside that cover and revealing whole loaves, cut loaves, and slices of Cinnamon Raisin Bread towering over and around each other.  So, my brain started churning and clanking...maybe even smoking a bit...and I did what anybody who was in it to win it would do. I went to the ice cream machine!  I mean, everybody knows you're serious when you start whipping up a custard, right?  

Inspired by the swirls of cinnamon that twist throughout the moist, tangy loaves, I went with a rich, creamy custard that is infused with that same bold warmth.  The ice cream itself is inspired by and adapted from a recipe I'd been wanting to try for some time now from the book The Perfect Scoop by David Lebovitz.  But the bread really begged for a starring role here.  So what I did was to cut it up into chunks and make a caramel to coat it with.  Once folded into the hot, amber sugar, it is spread out on a sheet to cool.  Then chopped it into smaller bits and folded it into the smooth ice cream as soon as it was churned.  It's like little crunchy bites of praline or brittle!  You get a sugary-cinnamon crunch in the midst of every creamy bite.  Occasionally you'll be surprised by a fruity raisin.  If you don't mind me saying so...it's pretty blissful.

And now to step in front of the judges and await my fate...
Cinnamon Lovers Delight Ice Cream
{Cinnamon Ice Cream w/ Cinnamon Raisin Bread Praline Crunch}
 from the kitchen of girlichef
yield: 1 quart + 1 cup

ice cream:
1 c. whole milk
¾ c. superfine sugar
pinch of sea salt
Eight 5″ cinnamon sticks (or the equivalent)
2 c. heavy cream, divided
5 large egg yolks

praline:
3 slices Cinnamon-Swirl Raisin Bread
6.75 oz. superfine sugar
¼ c. + 2 Tbs. water
one 3" cinnamon stick
 ice cream:
Place cinnamon sticks in a paper bag or a baggie and smash with the side of a heavy pot until you have broken them into shards...some big and some small.

Place them in a heavy, medium-sized pot and warm with the milk, sugar, sea salt, and 1 cup of the heavy cream over a medium-low flame.  Heat until just before it starts to simmer, then turn off the heat and let it sit and steep for 1 hour. 

Strain the cinnamon sticks out then pour back into pot and set it over low heat.  

 Pour the remaining 1 cup cream into a large bowl and set aside.

In a separate medium bowl, whisk together the egg yolks. Slowly pour about half of the warm mixture into the egg yolks, whisking constantly to temper.  Pour the warmed egg yolks back into the saucepan while whisking.

Stir the mixture constantly over medium heat with a wooden spoon, scraping the bottom as your stir, until napé (when the mixture is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon)

Set a strainer over the bowl of cream and pour the custard through.  Stir into the cream.
Place a piece of plastic wrap directly on the surface of the custard (to prevent a skin from forming).  Place in refrigerator until completely chilled.

praline:
 Break the bread into chunks and place on a baking tray in an oven that has been preheated to 350° F.  Cook until just dried out and starting to turn golden, ~20 minutes.  Set aside.

Put sugar, water, and cinnamon stick in a saucepan and bring to a boil.  Stir a few times until it comes to a boil, then just let it cook over medium heat until it turns light amber in color.  Stir in the chunks of bread and swirl to coat.  Turn out onto a silpat or parchment lined sheet tray.  Remove cinnamon stick.  Let cool, and then break or cut into small bits.

to finish:
 Pour chilled cinnamon custard into an ice cream machine and freeze according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

When the ice cream maker stops, pour into a large bowl and fold in the praline (set aside a little for garnish and crush it up smaller, if you wish).  Pack into a freezer-safe container; cover and place into freezer for a couple of hours.  
*This is my submission to Ott,A's Iron Chef Challenge Bake-Off sponsored by Taste of Home


*Update 12/26/11: Winner!  I'm the Winner!  So excited to be "crowned" the 2011 Iron Chef Champion! Many Thanks...I'm honored.


I am also sharing this post with:
crazy sweet tuesday sweet treats thursday SweetToothFriday sweets for a saturday weekend cooking BYOB-badge
Tuesday, December 13, 2011

Banana Pancakes w/ Butter Rum Banana Maple Syrup

Growing up, my favorite pancakes were banana.  We always sliced the bananas and just folded them into the batter.  When you took a bite of your pancakes, you'd get warm, fruity discs in every bite.  When I was older and starting making pancakes for my own kids, I did it the same way...but...I also tried mashing up the bananas and just using them as a part of the batter itself, as opposed to using them as a fold-in.  Doing this keeps the pancakes moist and just sort of permeates them with a light hint of banana.  The banana seems a bit understated.  I like them this way.  We all do, really.  But there's a special place in all our hearts for the kind with little pockets of soft, warm fruit hiding in every bite.  

These particular pancakes were adapted from some that I saw in the book Dos Caminos Mexican Street Food.  I liked the subtle addition of warming cinnamon and ginger...and of course, the buttermilk.  I like buttermilk in just about everything, it seems.  These pancakes aren't very sweet, so they take a blanket of Maple syrup very, very well.  But I started thinking.  I wanted to add bake those soft, warm, banana-y bursts when I took a bite.  So I came up with a quick syrup and seems to caress your tongue.  Seems to brighten your mood without even trying.  The pancake is good, but really, it's just the perfect vehicle for that seductive syrup.
Banana Pancakes w/ Butter Rum Banana Maple Syrup
from the kitchen of girlichef
yield: ~16 pancakes

pancakes:
2 c. all-purpose flour
3 Tbs. sugar
1½ tsp. baking powder
½ tsp. salt
¼ tsp. ground cinnamon
⅛ tsp. ground ginger
2 very ripe bananas, pureed
2 eggs
2 c. buttermilk
2 Tbs. butter, melted

syrup:
1½ Tbs. butter
big pinch salt
¼ tsp. ground ginger
2 bananas, sliced & kept separate
1 Tbs. rum
⅓  c. maple syrup
pancakes:
Sift the flour, sugar, baking powder, salt, cinnamon, and ginger in a large bowl.  In a separate bowl, whisk together the pureed bananas, eggs, and buttermilk.  Add the wet mixture to the dry mixture and stir until just combined.  Stir in the melted butter.  If the batter seems too thick, you can thin it with a little extra buttermilk.

Place a heavy skillet over medium heat.  Once hot, add a dab of butter and let it melt.  Pour about a quarter of a cup of batter onto the skillet for each pancake.  Cook until the surface is bubbly and the edges begin to look dry.  It should be golden on the bottom.  Flip and cook until golden on the bottom.  Repeat.

syrup:
Place a medium skillet over medium-low heat.  Add butter, salt, and ginger.  Swirl around until melted, then add first sliced banana.  Cook and toss until coated, about 30 seconds.  Add rum and cook another 30 seconds.   Add maple syrup and cook until bubbly.  Throw in final banana and immediately turn off the heat.  Toss to coat.

to serve:
Serve pancakes with soft butter and syrup.
I am sharing this post with:
Tasty Tuesdays 33 shades of green TastyTuesdayBB hearthnsoul150 a little birdie told me rook no. 17 Countdown_Button_2011 made with love mondays